The Beginning of the Handbag

“Women are supposed to be very calm generally: but women feel just as men feel; they need exercise for their faculties, and a field for their efforts, as much as their brothers do; they suffer from too rigid a restraint, too absolute a stagnation, precisely as men would suffer; and it is narrow-minded in their more privileged fellow-creatures to say that they ought to confine themselves to making puddings and knitting stockings, to playing on the piano and embroidering bags.” - Jane Eyre

The late Georgian period was an interesting time for women's fashion. Skirts were becoming narrower, so the large pockets women had previously worn under their dresses were no longer practical. Women had to look for other solutions to help carry their things, so the reticule bag was born.

Left to right: Pair of embroidered cotton pockets, 1800 – 29, France. Embroidered velvet pocket with heraldic motif, embroidered 1775 – 1800, printed and made 1840 – 50, Germany. Source: V & A Museum

Often called the "ridicule" bag because of its small size and apparent impracticality, the reticule bag was the first ladies' fashion handbag in England. These bags were often quite elaborate, with fancy embroidery, crochet, and tassels really making them the ultimate fashionable bag. These bags were originally primarily mesh, but over time the term "reticule" widened as artists became more creative with their materials and decor.

Small mesh beg from the first quarter of the 19th century. Source: The Met

A white beaded and tasseled reticule from 1830. Source: LACMA

A heavily beaded reticule bag from 1810. Source: LACMA

A black, tasseled reticule bag from 1860. Source: LACMA

A beaded and tasseled reticule bag from 1890. Source: Glenmore National Historical Site

A black satin reticule with silver beadwork, 1890's. Source: Glenmore National Historical Site

These reticule bags also became evidence of a woman's accomplishments. Because bags were often decorated by hand, a nice bag wasn't only evidence of good taste—it also proved that you knew how to mesh, sew, knit, embroider, and bead. This may be what Jane finds so infuriating about the male expectation that women must "embroider bags". She doesn't find embroidery to be a true testament to her value as a human being.

Throughout Jane Eyre there are many references to the pressures of fashion. Jane Eyre almost always reacts against these pressures, preferring her plain clothes. While we typically think of fashion as a kind of self-expression, Jane argues that fashion, like any other social norm, can actually be quite limiting. In the quote at the beginning, Jane is arguing that even if she is not beautiful or romantic-looking, she is still worthy of love. Her fashion choices do not reflect the passion she feels for life, and she refuses to dress differently, despite Mr. Rochester to see her dress "fairy-like". In these ways, Jane uses her fashion choices as an act of rebellion, refusing to let Mr. Rochester romanticize her beyond what she is comfortable with, and refusing to deny her passions just because she dresses plain.